Oh the irony.

I will be promoting this article via social media outlets like Facebook; and yet, here I am claiming that Social Networking is dead.

I’m afraid I’m not saying anything revolutionary or earth-shattering. People smarter then I have already proclaimed Social Media sites a rotting corpse.

Here is why Social Networking sites are dead.

Reason No 1
If history is any indicator (and it always is) there once was Friendster and now its not.
There once was myspace and when was the last time you went there?

We have no reason to think that facebook, twitter, and the current crop of social sites will stick around forever; nothing does.

Reason No 2
SPAM attack. As these sites gain momentum they get infested with SPAMers. SPAMers are like those bullies that come to the playground and kick sand in everyone’s face and ruin the party for everyone.
But then new, less known playground comes along and regular kids move there only to be followed by SPAMers 2-3 years later. So long twitter, its been nice knowing you.

Reason No 3
Competition. There once was Flickr and now there is picasa. Technology is getting cheaper and cheaper and it’s getting easier for anyone to put up their own social networking site.

Here is why Social Networking site will Live-On Forever

No, Facebook will not be “in” 5 years from now (or maybe it beats the odds? What do you think?); but there will be other sites to take its place.

Mainly, niche sites like corkd.com (for folks interested in wine) and 2wheeltips.com (for folks interested in motorcycle safety and education). These sites have a chance of surviving beyond the usual 2-3 year term. In fact, the nature of niche-sites is that it takes 2-3 years for them to really gain momentum and SPAMers have limited use of these unless they are pushing products directly related to the site’s niche.

I guess it would be appropriate to mention few stand-outs that are gaining momentum.

UStream.com allows you to stream your video and set up your own “TV” Show online.

Vark.com (one of my favs) has real people answering your questions about anything and everything.

Do you think some general-purpose social net sites will beat the odds?
Which ones did I leave out that really deserve a mention?
Do you think Facebook will beat the odds?

Are You in Shape? It could save your life next time you ride your bike

by Don Dino on 16th Jan 2010 | View all blogs by Don Dino
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One of the reasons we all love to ride our bikes is so that we can lay into those curves and feel the heart pumping. Even if you like to take it nice and slow while riding, a situation may present itself where you will need to make a split-second decision. So let me ask you a question:

Are you accustomed to making decisions while your heart-rate is elevated?

I know we can all be great decision makers when we have ample time to think about our options, but how are you under pressure? What kind of decision-maker are you when your heart is going boom boom boom out of your chest?

To be a great decision-maker while your heart-rate is elevated you must train under such conditions. How? Glad you asked…

All you have to do is speed-up that inner-metronome every once in a while. Go for a bicycle ride with your dog; maybe some tennis with whoever rides on the back-seat of your motorcycle; don’t forget that humans are made to run, so put on those moccasins and get out there; try my personal favorite, mixed martial arts…whatever gets your ticker in the upper register.

I wish I could say that I am some kind of genius who has figured this out all on his own; alas, that’s not the case. Those guys who make motorcycle-riding their profession figured this out a long time ago.

Of course, there will be a few other beneficial “side-effects” from all this heart-pounding. Being in better shape will allow you to ride longer if need be and will improve your overall health…it’s what I call a win-win-win.

All this talk of running, tennis and so on makes me wonder…what type of other hobbies do 2wheeltipsters like to do? What is your favorite non-bike related activity? And please don’t say “watching golf”.

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  by GrrrlX 13 days ago

  I like hiking with hubby and the dog, and I actually go to the gym a few times a week! I also try to ride my bicycle to work on the weekends when weather permits (above 30 F) which is 5 miles away. I also do lots of lovely sedentary things, like study, surf the 'net, watch a little tv, and do some crafts.

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  by Jen 13 days ago

  Watching golf...got'cha! :) I do enjoy walking the courses with my son, as he is involved with many tournaments. Some of the courses are quite a challenge to walk. When the weather is warmer I like to walk and jog on the levee in town. I also just got an awesome new bicycle that is fun to ride. I have been considering, possibly, a sprint triathlon at the end of the summer as incentive to get and STAY in shape...we'll see.

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  by Don Dino 13 days ago

  Glad to hear 2wheeltipsters are keepin in shape...:-)

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  by Carol 13 days ago

  I might as well confess right now: I do watch golf....yikes!!! I said it! BUT, I also play golf (or did until a year or so ago, when other things took up the time that it took to play a round on public courses. But, when I played golf, not only did I walk the course; I always carried my bag. And that, I must say, is something I saw fewer and fewer people doing. Other than golf, I love to walk, and I have to get back to the gym!!! Working out at the gym is a great stress reliever and a perfect way to strengthen muscles in preparation for riding season!

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  by Don Dino 13 days ago

  Vigorous exercise reduced the stress-hormone (cortisol) and increases the feel-good hormone (endorphin). Being in shape does make it more easy to go for long(er) rides and it makes every ride more enjoyable when the body is not fatiguing prematurely. So keep it active folks :-)

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  by 2Wheeltips 3 days ago

  One of the things new riders will find out very very quickly is how sore their arms, shoulders, hands and neck get after just 30 minutes of riding. Well....you do need some strength to hold your head up against the wind pressure, to grip the handlebars, and to push to steer the bike. Oh...and of course your stomach will be sore from holding yourself upright in the saddle.

  Ever shake the hand of a biker? (male or female) Ever notice how strong their hands are? It comes from riding. It's also a good way and subtle way to find out if the "biker" you are talking to is a bike owner or a bike rider. Just shake their hands!! :)

Sun Tzu and the Art of Motorcycling

By Don Dino

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When you strap-on your protective gear and mount your two wheeled steed, does it ever feel like you’re about to step onto the battlefield? Once out there, you are likely to encounter 18 wheeled monstrosities, 4 wheeled sardine-cans, and single-wheeled hamsters spinning inside the heads of absent-minded drivers.

To bring the battlefield analogy home, did you realize (as was pointed-out to me by Mr. David Hough) that more people die in motorcycle accidents each year than did on 9/11? So, we have the War on Terror, but we don’t have the War on Motorcycle-Ignorance. Perhaps it doesn’t have a ring to it…

When you go into the battle, you can choose to be like Sun Tzu, a master strategist and a supreme tactician. Someone who knows the enemy and – perhaps more importantly – knows themselves.
If you’ve taken the MSF class, you may have encountered this same advice in perhaps less colorful form when your instructor strongly encouraged you to ride within your – and your bike's- limits.

Or you can choose to be an ignoramus. Run into the battlefield with your pants down and wearing a blind fold.

Not having a good understanding of certain counter intuitive principles of motorcycling (like counter steering, vision casting, dangers of left turns, and so much more….) is tantamount to being that guy dying on the battlefield.

…but you are here, reading this, so I know you are Sun Tzu. And perhaps the ignoramus will have to learn the hard way. There is, however, the third category, and these soldiers need our help.

You probably have a friend – or a friend of a friend – who wants to get into motorcycling or would like to improve their skill set. These eager soldiers must be sent to the right bootcamp. This is how you can help.

Tell your friends about 2wheeltips via Facebook, twitter, and whatever other means you might have of spreading the good word. Point them to an article, or a cool video, or perhaps the upcoming interview with David Hough (and many more to follow).

Growing our little corner of the interweb will enable Tony and Carol to dedicate even more time to 2wt and bring us even better content.

Let’s show our gratitude and appreciation by thanking them right now. Thanks Tony and Carol…you guys rock.

Motorcycle winter-storage instructions

by Don Dino on 5th Oct 2009 | View all blogs by Don Dino
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Lots of motorcycle shops profit every spring from motorcycle owners' failure to properly prepare their machines for a season of inactivity so don’t be one of the suckers. This is the must-know information. All fat has been trimmed away. Misguided notions and myths have been omitted for brevity.

1. Stabilize the fuel
   1. Modern unleaded fuel only has a shelf life of 3-4 weeks before it begins to deteriorate.
   2. Empty gas tanks will draw moisture and will rust while sitting. Make sure the tank is filled up and treated with a fuel stabilizer.
   3. Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil or Seafoam; make sure you follow recommended dosage for your tank exactly) to a full tank of fuel, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to work the stabilized fuel throughout the engine.
   4. If you are riding to a gas station to fill the tank, put the stabilzer in before you add gas. The turbulence of the incoming fuel and the ride home will help to mix it.

1. Change your oil
   1. Residual fuel and contaminants in the oil can oxidize during prolonged storage or inactivity. Changing your oil now removes all the sludge and dirt that would otherwise start to deteriorate. In addition, changing oil now guarantees fresh lubrication when it comes time to remove the bike from storage.
   2. Use a quality oil that you would normally drive with. I recommend synthetics which will survive much longer into next year's riding season.
   3. Run the engine a few minutes to disburse the oil through the engine.

 

 

1. Prepare the Battery
   1. Lead-acid batteries should be kept under a constant charge in order to prolong their life.
   2. Attach a Battery Tender that won't overcharge your battery. A trickle charger may be used but must not be run for more than a half-hour each day. This could be accomplished using an appliance timer.
   3. If your motorcycle will be stored where freezing temperatures are likely, remove the battery from the bike and place in a warm dry place. The battery should be kept charged regardless.

 

 

1. Clean and Lubricate
   1. Dirt, sand, and road salts will begin to corrode and damage metal surfaces if left during storage. Give your bike a good cleaning before putting her to sleep for the winter.
   2. Lubricate all moving parts such as cables and use a metal protectant spray on the underside of the frame and drivetrain. This will combat any rust on areas exposed from pitting or scratches.
   3. NEVER use WD-40 on your motorcycle

1. Check your Tires
   1. Make sure your tires are properly inflated. If you have a compressor then deflate your tires first to expel any moisture, then inflate with clean compressed air. You should repeat this step before riding again in the spring.
   2. If possible, elevate your motorcycle so both tires are not under load. This is especially important if the bike will be stored in freezing conditions. Make sure your bike is secure. Motorcycle lifts with bottle jacks have been known to fail when left under prolonged load.

 

 

 

1. Cover your motorcycle
   1. Even when stored inside, your bike should be covered while stored. Use a cover that can breath and not a plastic tarp.
   2. Moisture should not be allowed to become trapped under the cover on your bike's metal surfaces.
   3. If your storage is in a barn or similar place, cover the exhaust's to prevent any unwanted creatures from making a winter den. Place plastic bags over the intake to keep moisture out.

 

 

There are a hundred more suggestions out there (filling the tires with nitrogen, etc.), but for the most part these steps will ensure your investment gets a safe winter's rest. Once stored, resist the temptation of periodically starting the engine, or at least until you are ready to drain the stabilized fuel and start riding again.

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  by Simon O 3 months ago

  There is another alternative of course. Don't be a fair weather rider. A bike is for life, not just for summer

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  by Tony B 3 months ago

  This is the first year I plan to ride year round. (well at least until we get a heavy snow and the salt comes out). It will be different not spending a full day changing the oil, treating the fuel and getting the trickle charger going.

What kind of bike should I get?

by Don Dino on 12th Oct 2009 | View all blogs by Don Dino
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Most people getting into an MSF class have a pretty good idea of what kind of bike they want to ride after they get their license. I cant hope to change your mind about that, nor would I try; I do want to share some thoughts on what your first bike should (and should not) be and offer a point of view regarding the positives and negatives of whatever choice you decide to go with.

Let’s face it; your ride will most likely depend on who you are.

A college girl that needs a ride to school few block away from her dormitory will most likely opt for a moped or a small engine motorcycle; I would imagine a large touring motorcycle will not be on her shopping list.

Twenty-something year old male (if the stereotype holds true) will most likely be looking for a crotch-rocket of some sort.

A man in his 30s or 40s will be eyeing up that new cruiser no doubt.

So let’s examine some pros and cons to all of our choices.

First, we must think about how we are going to be using our bike.

If you live in a beach community, perhaps a tourist-destination or resort town, sans highways and fast-and-busy four-wheelers; having a small size engine to get you from point A to point B would suffice for most.

I started out on a moped then drove a 150cc egine bike which was sufficient for my age (late teens) and place (small town).
There was no highway-riding at this time so these smaller bikes were perfect.
Having a large cruiser or a touring bike would certainly be overkill in this environment. I could however see a nice sporty rocket come in handy on occasion.

These days I ride a middleweight cruiser. I wouldn’t even entertain the idea of riding anything smaller given the fact that I am sharing the road with those pesky fast-and-busy four-wheelers who insist on using our streets for their canned monstrosities :-p

They say loud pipes save lives and this has proven to be true on many occasions. Every time I am making a turn in a busy intersection I am preceded by my petulant exhaust system (clutch in – heavy on the throttle) which has alerted and awoke car-drivers at many a intersections.

We have all experienced a gust of wind on the highway at 50+ mph speeds. On lighter bikes, these can be concerning at least and devastating at most. Having a larger bike certainly helps.

And finally, there is a small matter of rice-burners. Many prefer these fast and fun bikes over the alternatives.

I’ve never owned one myself so I feel little out of place commenting, however, I will say that many folks, who have started out on these sporty-two-wheelers, eventually switch to a cruiser style motorcycle.

Dirt-bikes and dual-sport are clearly best suited for off-road riding and I wouldn’t recommend either for extended and regular highway consumption.

So in summary, I would say the following.

Smaller bikes for in-city, local, non-highway riding.
Middleweights (at least) for highways.
Touring for cross-country.
Speedsters for the impatient ones.
All others (dirt-bikes and dual sport) should be used as intended. i.e off-road, non-highway.

In conclusion, buy the bike for the type of riding you do most.

Final word.

In my observation, I find that young men and women are hesitant to ride middleweight or heavy cruisers. Also, new riders are intimidated by these for (I imagine) same reasons.
All I can say is that cruisers are your best bet for highway riding and if the bike seems too big, too loud, or too powerful for you to handle it, believe me when I say that in no time what so ever you will be controlling that metal steed with precision accuracy. Especially if you decide to take a Ride Like a Pro class. Also, many cruisers are made “low” so that even if you are on the short side, you will be able to reach the ground (a comforting thought for most). Check out Honda Shadows to see what I mean.

Hope this helps...Seacrest out.

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  by Tony B 3 months ago

  Again....very good information here. You definitely need to get a bike that suits the type of riding you plan to do.

  Also don't go out and get the biggest baddest bike on the block as your first bike. Your first car wasn't a massive SUV or an exotic sports car because you lacked the skills to control them. But many new riders have no problem buying a 1000cc sportbike or 1500cc cruiser as a first bike. A very very big and potentially deadly mistake!!

  You can not expect your local dealer to tell you not to buy those bikes. They are in the business of making money and will sell you whatever you want, even if you end up dying on it a week later.

  I know one local dealer in central NJ who will sell new riders a 1000cc sportbike or a 1500cc cruiser...BUT.....will not let them drive it home. Delivery only!! Why? Because they don't want the negative publicity of having a rider crash or die riding the bike home. They care more about your money that about you.

  Getting a smaller bike as a first bike is not a bad thing. You can always sell it to another new rider when your skills improve.

To Front-Brake or Rear-Brake. That is the Question.

by Don Dino on 12th Oct 2009 | View all blogs by Don Dino
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Anyone who has taken an MSF class knows that using front AND rear brake is the proper thing to do for maximum stopping power.
However, you will still hear some folks swear by – ironically – one over the other; with both Front-Brake or Rear-Brake advocates taking an even share of the market.

There have been three reasons (that I’ve been able to identify) as to why are people so hell-bent on picking one over the other. Here is what they are.

First.
Most of us have a bad childhood memory of laying too heavy on the front brake on our bicycles and flying (or almost flying) over the handle bars. This taught us never to use the front brake. These people grew up advocating using only rear brake on their motorcycles.
Motorcycle however, has shock absorbents on the front wheel which results in the front side of the motorcycle “sinking” into the ground. As long as your front wheel is not locked for more then a second, your ass will remain firmly planted on the seat.

Second.
The experts - and by that I mean professional motorcycle racers – advocate the use of the front brake only. After all, aren’t these guys the professionals and wouldn’t they know what brake is the best?

Turns out, not necessarily.

Using front brake during a motorcycle race is –in fact – the right thing to do, for them.
This is because they are flying at 150+ mph on these really light bikes and hitting the back brake is pointless since the back of the bike is quite literarily being lifted off the ground.
Since the back of the motorcycle is airborne it would be quite pointless for them to use a back brake. However, most of us are not riding at those speeds and most of us ride (statistically speaking anyways) heavy cruisers which means that when we brake both wheels will remain firmly planted on the ground.

Third.
Using both Front-Brake and Rear-Brake is appropriate only when the bike is straightened-out. This means that using front brake while your front wheel is turned (to the left or to the right) is likely to result in crash. Also, whenever you find yourself in a curve (at higher speeds – above 25mph – you will be counter steering) it’s a really good idea to lay off the front brake. 

However, if you find yourself making turns at lower speeds (under 25mph – and some would say under 15mph) it is quite OK and considered proper form to use the rear brake to stabilize your bike.

So as you can see the use of Front-Brake or Rear-Brake is dependant on circumstances, and what’s correct for some may not be correct for others. Using Front-Brake alone is ok for racers (or is it racists? lol) but for the rest of us its not so clear cut.

Also, don’t forget what you learned in your MSF class. Make sure you do all your braking (and shifting into lower gear) while your bike is straight-up and before you lay into the curve. Take the outside-inside-outside trajectory and accelerate while going through the bend.

Keep your throttle in the higher RPMs so that you have “speed on demand” if and when it’s needed.

Two articles in one day…I’m feeling creative today :-)
 

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  by Tony B 3 months ago

  This is an outstanding article and contains very very very good tips and information! Especially the tip on doing all of your braking before you enter a curve.

  Dino...keep the tips coming. This is outstanding information.

Uphill Battle - Moving Forward from a Stopped Position on an Incline

By Don Dino

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You arrive at a red light only to realize that you are about to stop your bike on an incline. When that light turns green, cars behind you will expect you to start moving forward; besides, isn’t that what you want as well?

First things first.
Don’t panic. If it helped I would whole heartedly recommend that you do panic but panic never got anyone anyplace good. So, don’t panic.

Second.
Make sure you practice an uphill start before you find yourself in this situation.

Third.
Here are 3 basic methods of moving your bike forward from a stopped position on an incline.

Method 1 – Keep your right hand strong.
Both feet on the ground- right hand squeezing the front brake. Once you are ready to move, you will work the front brake and the throttle simultaneously. This may sound impossible or at least awkward at first but in no time this will be a piece of cake. The idea is to give it enough power to break inertia, work the friction zone to engage the forward motion and once you feel the bike pulling forward slowly release the front brake.

Method 2 – Keep you foot on the ground.
The idea here is to do exactly what we did in the previous method except this time we will work the rear brake. One foot on the ground the other on the rear brake. Once ready to move, engage the throttle and slowly release the clutch (work that friction zone). When you feel the bike moving forward slowly lift your foot off the rear brake and off you go.

Method 3 – Don’t stop
This method is a great way of really feeling and working the friction zone. The idea is to stay in gear and work the throttle and friction zone to give it enough gas to almost create forward momentum but not enough to actually move. The incline and gravity will be pulling you back while the bike (throttle and friction zone) are trying to move you forward thereby creating a kind of equilibrium between these two opposing forces.
Once ready to move, simply lay off the friction zone slightly and give it more gas and off you go.

Side notes.

Don’t shut-off your bike while waiting on lights to change. It’s a bad idea and it makes you a static target. Always be ready to move at a moments notice.

When on flat ground, it’s ok to put your bike in neutral and take a little breather; however, this would be a bad idea on an incline. Basically, whenever possible make sure you are in-gear and ready to move at all times (whenever at an intersection or a light).

Salute

Motorcycle Accidents – a How to Guide Part 1

by Don Dino on 15th Oct 2009 | View all blogs by Don Dino
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What does it take to get into an accident while riding?

Part 1 will explore conditions that result in a rubber-side-up effect.
A facetious list of do’s to make sure we have a really bad time while riding

Part 2 will take on a more serious look at accident-survival and reflect on the best ways to have an accident.

So, what do you have to do around here to get into an accident?

1.    Make sure you ride intoxicated.
2.    Make sure your attention is elsewhere. This happens when you ride irritated, pissed off, upset over god knows what, etc.
3.    Make sure your focus is on the guy who cut you off. For every guy that cuts you off there are 10 more waiting to plow right into you. Instead, consider it a great opportunity to practice control over your emotions and maintain an indifferent state of mind.
4.    Make sure you ride stiff on the bike. Squeeze the handlebars as tightly as possible and make sure your forearms fatigue quickly and are useless for when you need them the most.
5.    Make sure you ride in people’s blind spots. Also, assume everyone can see you.
6.    Make sure you ride beyond your capabilities.
7.    Make sure you ride beyond your bike’s capabilities.
8.    Make sure you never inspect your bike. (T-CLOCS anyone?)
9.    Relax, what can happen 2 miles away from your house while picking up a loaf of bread? Turns out, everything. Most accidents happen on short rides, 5 minutes away from the rider’s house.
10.    Make sure you do not adjust for changing riding conditions. This could be anything; here are some examples: Time of day (daytime into nighttime), change in weather patterns (sunny to rain), traffic congestion (mid-day into rush hour), surface conditions (asphalt to gravel, dry to slippery, etc.) and so on.

I think we have all done at least one of these at one point or another. Is your bad habit on the list? Do share, you are amongst friends.

Next up, we will discuss the best ways of going into an accident.
I was fortunate enough to hear a few experts on this topic discuss it at some length. The panel was comprised of motorcycle racers and Hollywood stunt-men; amongst others.
I think they shared some invaluable information that I hope none of us ever need to use.

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  by 2Wheeltips 3 months ago

  I'd like to add these additional points:
  --------------------------------
  11. Tailgate big trucks so that when the re-tread tire blows out, the 10 pound piece of rubber that is flying at you at 65mph can knock you off the bike.

  12. Constantly swerve in and out of lanes at 85mph making sure you cut as close as possible to other cars and especially trucks.

  13. Play around with your GPS, cellphone, iPod or other gadget while in heavy traffic.

  14. Go as fast as you can around blind curves, especially at dawn and dusk through wooded areas where dear and other nocturnal animals live.

  15. Make sure you lean hard and heavy when riding over wet leaves and fresh grass clippings that may be in the road.

  16. Get the biggest bike you can find and make sure it is so big that you can't put your feet level on the ground.

  17. Even though your bike is making strange noises and it wobbles around at highway speeds, just keep riding and never take it to the shop to get it checked.

  I hope this list helps.

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  by 2Wheeltips 3 months ago

  This is fun! I just thought of a few more!!
  -----------------------------------
  18. Let your passenger get as drunk as possible. Then let them pass out on the back of the bike on the ride home.

  19. Pass as many slow moving cars and trucks at curves and intersections as possible.

  20. When in urban areas, drive as close as possible to parked cars as you can.

  21. Go to bike night and do wheelies and burn outs in the parking lot.

  22. Put sport bike tires on your sport touring bike. Then blast down the highway at 120mph. Make sure you have a passenger so the extra stress will make them fail quicker.

  I could go on, but I need so leave some comments for others.

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  by Don Dino 3 months ago

  lol.. Great additions Tony… I’ve read an interesting study on airplane accidents and the pre-conditions that affected the probability. Its very closely related to motorcycle accidents…it would make for a good article….sometime soon….

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  by 2Wheeltips 3 months ago

  i know they all seem silly. But i tell you, I've seen riders do all of the below and worse!

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  by Carol 3 months ago

  Here are a couple more:
  23. whatever you do, NEVER adjust your rear view mirrors so you can see behind you...it is much more fun to be "surprised"
  24. If you have a bike with a chain, don't even THINK of lubing the chain every 300 miles....it's a chain after all...it should last forever, right?
  25. NEVER ever pay attention to the size of your gas tank, the amount of gas you have, the mpg you get or the trip odometer (don't even think of resetting the trip odometer if you are unlucky enough to have one.....). It's much more fun to find yourself running out of gas on a major highway and then figuring out where to dump your bike with the least amount of trouble, right???
  26. Trust every driver of every vehicle on the road with you. After all, they all have licenses and are capable drivers, right?

  give me time....I can go on and on with these!!!

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  by Don Dino 3 months ago

  lol...those were great Carol and few of those happened to me this morning :-(

  which reminds me, I need to lube up my chain :-)

Lane Placement

by Don Dino on 16th Oct 2009 | View all blogs by Don Dino
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When it comes to riding in the correct mini-lane (single car lane is divided into left, right and middle “mini-lane” for us, two-wheeled demons), any two motorcyclists can agree on one thing. The third motorcyclist’s opinion is wrong :-p

So what is THE BEST lane position?

The best position within a car-lane is constantly changing depending on traffic conditions.

Here are some considerations that could possibly affect your choice of lane position:

• Always aim to increase your ability to see more. This needs no explanation I hope
• Always try to increase your visibility to other motorists. 
  • Next time you’re in your car, pay attention to motorcyclists around you. Notice how they tend to disappear in your side-view mirrors depending on the lane positioning behind you. 
  • Also, while you’re in relative safety of your car, observe correct or incorrect riding habits of others. Considering traffic conditions, would you do something different?
• Change lane position to stay out of blind spots. 
• Sometimes you may need to protect your lane and will position yourself accordingly. Car drivers will “sneak-into” your spot and run you off the road is you let them, so beware. 
• Change mini-lane position to communicate your intentions. Perhaps you are taking the next exit on the right and you are riding on the left hand side of the far-left lane. Moving towards the middle and then right side of the mini-lane should indicate to other motorists that you are about to change (car) lanes.
• Change mini-lanes to avoid windblast from other vehicles
• Always aim to have three escape routes out of any situation. Adjust mini-lanes accordingly.
• Negotiating turns. The old outside-inside-outside trajectory.

I tend to ride in the middle mini-lane. This makes me (more) visible to other vehicles and gives some room for maneuvering (to the left or right) if need be. There are of course exceptions. If the middle mini-lane is drenched with oil, coolant or diesel fuel (you’ll know it when you smell it), I will stay away from the center.

The highest accumulation of oil occurs at intersection, so, as a general rule, you want to stay to the left or the right.

hth

Salute

Center of Mass will Affect your Ability to Steer

by Don Dino on 16th Oct 2009 | View all blogs by Don Dino
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Did you know?

The closer the contact patch is to the Center of Mass, the quicker and easier the machine will steer.

Taken from groundbraking work by Keith Code in his book A Twist of the Wrist 2: The Basics of High-Performance Motorcycle Riding